Costa Rica Butterflies November 2024 - Part 1

Where to start with our trip to Costa Rica last November? It wasn't exactly the holiday of a lifetime that we expected, but it was a fantastic experience nonetheless.

We should have realised when the pilot informed us that our flight would be landing a little later than expected because we would have to fly around Tropical Cyclone Sara. I never imagined that the deep depression over the Gulf of Mexico, which slowly moved west and north, would have such an impact on the weather in western Costa Rica. We didn't get much wind at all, but what we did get was rain! Lots of rain! The first few mornings were cloudy with occasional sunny spells turning to rain by about 11am which would continue for much of the day.

We visited Nicaragua on the fourth day of our holiday where the weather was reasonably dry, but on our drive back our guide informed us that it had rained all day in Costa Rica and that the road back to our hotel was flooded. Luckily the water had reduced enough by the time we passed to allow us to get back safely.

For the next three days the rain just didn't stop. We were told that in that time as much rain had fallen as would normally fall in a whole year in that area. There were mud slides and flooding causing great damage to the roads and airport. The weather slowly improved after that, but there wasn't a day without some rain and it was only on the last day of our two-week holiday that we had a sunny morning with cloudless skies!

I say two-week holiday, but the rain caused damage to the runway at the airport, so many flights in and out were cancelled. Luckily the airport opened the day after our flight was due, so we were only delayed by one day.

We were staying right up in the north west of Costa Rica, very close to the Nicaraguan border. This is a coastal area of "dry forest" - mostly deciduous trees. We were there right at the end of the rainy season and should have expected a heavy shower maybe every second afternoon.

Unfortunately, the weather also meant that the national parks were all closed, so we didn't have an opportunity to venture into the cloud forest or any other parts of Costa Rica. Therefore, butterfly viewings were restricted to what I saw in the mornings at the resort, or along a track opposite the entrance to the hotel.

However, the few sunny spells we had really showed the potential for butterflies. I was amazed that after a day or two of non-stop rain, as soon as the sun came out butterflies would take to the air. They must be expert at finding good sheltered spots. I also noticed that about ten minutes before the rain started all the butterflies disappeared, so they seemed to know when the rain was about to come.

In the mornings, when it wasn't raining there were almost always butterflies in view. The hotel had enormous grounds with meandering swimming pools surrounded by tropical gardens. It was mostly various shades of yellow, or white butterflies that were flying around there interspersed with all sorts of other shapes, colours and sizes. By the afternoon there were fewer butterflies around.

There was also an amazing variety of other wildlife that frequented the hotel grounds and surrounding forest. The air was always full of bird song and other strange noises, including the roar of Howler Monkeys. White-faced Capuchin Monkeys paid regular visits to the hotel and its grounds and I saw Spider Monkeys just outside the hotel. There were several other mammals and also various Iguanas, Lizards and Skinks all around.

Despite the weather and limited search area, I still managed to identify 68 different species of butterflies and I saw many more fly past that were impossible to identify. Given that over 1,800 species of butterflies have been recorded in Costa Rica along with over 12,000 moths, it is understandable that butterflies need to be clearly photographed in order to identify them. Further complication is added by the enormous number of mimic species of both butterflies and moths and that a number of species have wet and dry season forms and males and females that look completely different!

On that final sunny morning I couldn't believe the number of butterflies flying everywhere and I saw several species that I hadn't seen in the previous two weeks. And on the drive to the airport there were all sorts of amazing butterflies flying along the edges of the roads. I can hardly imagine how many more species I would have been able to see had the weather been better and we could have travelled to different areas of the country.

Over the next few posts I will show the butterflies I managed to photograph.